Ellus Fall 2012: Playing with Texture
SAO PAULO–Ellus set the stage for a standout show with an amazing reside string quartet (mixed with electronic beat) and a distinctive stage backdrop, which looked like a wall taken correct out of your living room. And happily, the clothes did not disappoint, effortlessly matching the set’s glamour and sophistication.
The face of the brand Aline Weber (who is Brazilian, duh) opened the show with an all black ensemble that was something but boring, combining leather, sequins and wool in an artful blend of textures–certainly a promise of what was to come.
More all-black looks came down the runway, 1 following an additional, but despite the monotonous palette, every look felt unique and purposeful thanks to a wholesome variation in textures: There was fur lining, long sequins, filmy silk, sturdy wool, leather, leather and yes, a lot more leather. The collection undoubtedly took some style notes from S&M mistresses, with buckled and corestted belts, short leather dresses–even a leather bra and skirt combo. A single of our favorite looks was a worn-looking leather skirt and leading with lace detailing up the sides, which was extremely Alaia.
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Fall 2012 Menswear Beauty Trend: Beards
Beards are hardly an innovation in men’s fashion. We’ve seen several a whisker on runways prior to, and they ebb and flow each year just like just like eyebrows in the womenswear shows. But this season beards were out in full force, some to an extreme degree. Vivienne Westwood frosted her models’ faux-facial hair with snow and ice for an additional-rugged mountain man look, whilst Paul Smith and Umit Benan pruned their models’ chin hairs into rounded, shrub-like clouds. There had been exceptions to the bushiness, although: some designers, like Hermes and Roberto Cavalli, showed closely-cropped beards that much more closely resembled a handful of days’ worth of scruff. Also of note: An thrilling frequency of ginger beards! Take a appear of the season’s best beards in the slideshow.
Lanvin Men’s Fall 2012: Techno Classics
Lengthy Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–“The fabrics are specially produced in mills in Italy where there is nevertheless an appreciation for craftsmanship,” mentioned Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin’s temporary showroom on the Seine as we stood just before a navy wool jacket reinforced with neoprene at the shoulders.
Tailoring has always been the base of Lanvin’s menswear since the initial collection in 2005 but in this season’s spectacular collection Ossendrijver fused tailoring with technological innovations and sportswear elements to make the clothes proper for the moment.
With classical music blaring over the soundtrack interrupted at instances by loud beats of drums, Lanvin’s fall men’s collection combined tremendous analysis in fabrics with precise cuts. An ice blue wool single-breasted suit with patches of inserted neoprene emphasized the sharp lines of the cutting pattern. On close inspection at the showroom, metal staples were visible along the surface of a coat. Methods in the service of fashion–there is absolutely nothing far more convincing at this moment in any men’s fashion collection.
Yves Saint Laurent Men’s Fall 2012: Justify My Love
PARIS–On a cold morning inside the bright lengthy hallway of the Sorbonne, designer Stefano Pilati sent out a stellar collection for YSL menswear set to a luscious soundtrack by Scanner, with Sam Wagstaff reading an Andy Warhol interview and a couple of words from Madonna’s Justify My Enjoy.
The backdrop at the entrance of the white marble floor runway was a giant black board with words written, then erased and then rewritten to correspond with the words spoken in the soundtrack.
Perhaps this activity recommended the designer’s personal ideas. In his earlier men’s collections, Mr. Pilatti had numerous. Some of them worked and remained some had been discarded and resurrected and some had been just erased forever.
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Givenchy Men’s Fall 2012: Stars and Stripes and…Minotaurs?
Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–Underneath a rain soaked plastic tent on the grounds of the historical Hôtel des Invalides (Napoleon’s tomb), Riccardo Tisci presented his seventh menswear collection for Givenchy. He left behind the wild prints of the past two seasons–like spring’s ubiquitous bird of paradise–to showcase his signatures silhouettes: sharp slim fitted single-breasted suits and the sportswear elements, like the baseball jacket and the sweatshirt that is now grow to be a signature.
Tisci’s childhood obsession with Americana shone by way of in stars and stripes that adorned loose fit XXL workout sweatshirts and on striped sweaters. Surely these cotton shirts and sweatshirts with embroidered metal stars will be bestsellers at retail come next fall. And no Givenchy men’s collection is with no the pleated skort he showed at his first menswear show. This time it came striped in black and red, in black gabardine, or in denim.
Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Fall 2012: ‘I Did It My Way’
Extended Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–There’s something about the integrity of Mr. Yohji Yamamoto’s work that resists succumbing to seasonal trends. You have to respect designer who follows his personal vision despite the warp speed pace of fashion changing around him. It’s far more typically the case that the fashion planet at some point catches up with him–you can see his men’s pantsuits in several of the women’s collections shown here in the last two seasons.
In a little showroom on the Rue Saint Martin, Mr. Yamamoto, as usual, utilised a range of true individuals and fashion models–young and old, large and slim sizes –a reflection of the true people who purchase his clothes.
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Osklen Fall 2012: The Rave Continues
SAO PAULO–Remember ravers? Nicely, Brazilian label Osklen confident does. The brand employed the subculture as the main inspiration behind their fall 2012 collection. But prior to you commence picturing oversized Jnco pants, and pacifier necklaces, note that these are not the raving clothes we remember (and wish we could forget?): This time, they are all grown up, high fashion–and eco-conscious.
Certain, there was a lot of neon, camo and brightly colored furry factors (from purses, to hats, to sweaters), but there was also expertly tailored outerwear, filmy blouses and a digitized floral print that was decidedly 2012.
Of course, what else would you anticipate from designer Oskar Metsavaht, whose background is not in design or fashion–but snowboarding. Fun reality: The Osklen brand, now considered to be 1 of the most effective Brazilian labels, started out when Metsavaht, who was the first Brazilian to scale Mont Blanc and, as component of a group of snowboarding enthusiasts, also climbed the Aconcagua, the Americas’ highest mountain, saw a need for sportswear designed for colder temperatures. As you can see, the brand has come a lengthy way, in terms of fashion–but their athletic roots are unmistakable. And in this collection, the designer’s snowboarding background also seemed to shine. Is the raver reference producing a lot more sense now?
Dries van Noten Men’s Fall 2012: Psychedelic Elegance
Extended Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–Three painters were still busy working on a massive mural inside a second floor hall at the Grand Palais when Dries van Noten’s fall men’s collection took to the runway. The artists had been commissioned to recreate the colorful perform of Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters, and had, in fact, been operating for the past 24 hours (their oeuvre can be seen in a time elapsed video can be noticed at driesvannoten.com). The painters ignored the models walking behind them and continued working on their canvas wall.
The colorful mural, which also featured quotes from Oscar Wilde, set the tone for a collection that was meant to embody what the designer dubbed ‘psychedelic elegance.’ A white psychedelic-printed long coat worn with a white wool turtleneck and jeans opened the show, followed by various incarnations of these dense prints on jeans, shirts and jackets. Prints have usually been a Van Noten trademark–recall the cityscape prints in his spring women’s collection–and here the surrealist print jacquard added a flare to a black tie jacket.
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